| January 2006 Roundtable Minutes |
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Topic: Pinewood Derby Announcements
Planning your Pack Derby’s
Materials: 1) One and a half sheets of 8.5” by 11” construction paper. Full Sheet makes body, and half sheet makes cone. 2) One 4” inch square of heavy card stock or cardboard. Cut as shown in diagram to create tail fins. 3) 2” inch long piece of soda straw. Makes launch guide. 4) Penny used to create snugger for fit between body and nose cone. 5) 3-Gram pinch of clay or putty. Push way into tip of nose cone to aid in center of gravity. 6) 3-inch piece of string. Attaches nose cone to body. 7) 1/8” piece of expended 18-milliMeter engine. Used as engine thrust stopper inside body. 8) Tape(painters) to hold parts that are curing. 9) Optional 1” by 24” inch plastic surveyor light weight streamer. Wadding required. 10) Elmer’s glue. Instructions: 1) Roll body as shown. Use expended 18-milliMeter engines as diameter rolling core. 1a) Use glue sparingly as more glue creates longer curing times. 1b) Place tape on completed roll to hold body together while curing occurs. 1c) Carefully pull expended engines from center of body. 2) Use one expended engine to push 1/8” Engine Thrust Stop into place. 2a) Lightly coat external surface of Engine Thrust Stop with glue before pushing into place inside body. 2b) Push Engine Thrust Stop with expended engine as tool until 1/8” of expended engine still remains outside the body. Note: Extension beyond paper body protects the body from burn. 2c) Pull expended engine/tool from body leaving 1/8” Engine Thrust Stop within body to cure in place. 3) Roll Nose Cone using one-half sheet construction paper 8.5” by 6.5” as shown in the first diagram. 3a) Adjust the cone to get a relatively correct sized base that will fit into the inner diameter hole of the body. 3b) Use wetted-finger inside nose-cone for friction and twist the cone to achieve best diameter for wide portion of nose cone. 3c) Roll-back the final paper flap of the nose-cone and place a glue strip down the final flap and then reposition the flap so that curing can occur. Also, use a piece of tape to hold the cone together while curing is on-going. 3d) Jam 3-Gram pinch of clay or putty into the tip of the nose cone. Punch it down with short dowel rod. 3e) Poke penny into base of nose-cone perpendicular to the sides of the cone. 3f) Wad and twist leftover paper below penny so that the nose-cone can be inserted into the body. 3g) Either, Tape string internal to the body, as seen in the first diagram, and tie a string around the wad to connect the nose cone to the body to facilitate nose-cone ejection at apogee. Or, alternately glue the wadded up nose cone into the body and apply a piece of tape to make the connection permanent to create a one-time-rocket with no nose-cone ejection. 3h) OPTIONAL STREAMER: If you wish to facilitate ejection and gentle earth return use a 24” streamer tied and taped internally to the body. Wadding must be used to protect the streamer during ejection phase at apogee. The streamer ripples as the rocket falls and slows the rocket so that less damage might occur on impact. 4) Attach tail fins as seen in the first diagram using heat-glue gun or Elmer’s glue. Or, both. Smooth heat-glue as required for better operation. 4a) Mark tail fin locations using 120-degree markings for three tail-fins, or 90-degree markings for four tail-fins. There is a tool available for this that will be available for use at the Pack Paper Tiger Build function. If not use a protractor and a straight edge to create a set of lines to use under the body. Or, take marks off of this diagram below. 4b) To create a linear extension of the degrees-marking, to facilitate straight placement of tail-fins, use the tool available for this at the Pack Paper Tiger Build function. If not use a jamb of doorway by placing the pre-marked body into the cradle of the open door and use a pencil to mark straight up from the degree mark. Anything that allows you to create a tangential straight edge on the body will suffice. 4c) Place a thin coat of Elmer’s glue along the long leg of the 90 triangle, as seen in the first diagram. Put glued edge of tail-fin at marked line. Tack fin in place using heat glue gun. Or, hold until cure is sufficient. 5) Attach Soda Straw Launch Guide, as seen in 1st figure, using heat-glue gun or Elmer’s glue. Smooth heat-glue as required for better operation. 5a) Make sure launch guide is connected between tail fins so that adequate clearance is maintained for the rocket-pad-launch-guide when launching rocket. NOTE: Proper engines to use are 18mm size A or B series. Larger C and D series engines can over-power the Paper Tiger. Engines A, B, C, and D are produced by the manufacturer to start at the least powerful range A. Each successive letter makes the power of the engine twice that of the last letter. B is twice as powerful as A, C is four times as powerful as A, and D is eight times as powerful as A. o Pack116 used this to get new cubs to join • Planning o Each den supply 1 or 2 volunteers o Food committee Can be used as a fund raiser o Dads run track o Event committee o Tigers racing others are at different stations o One group racing others cheer them on o Video of race projected onto screen for better visibility o Project race video and race results/leader board onto screen o Everybody get a patch o top 3 from each group gets a trophy o overall champ o boards with artistic awards o recognition scarf for top positions go too Joann Fabric get checkered material and make scarf then use ribbon for rank to finish edges sew patch on the back Submitted by Paul Kempton |
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